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Diamandi's last look at her home island, on deck of the departing ferry boat. |
The sun’s glare off the sea hit my eyes, making me realize
how hot the day had become, and that my foster dog Diamandi would roast in the
car if I didn’t get back to her quickly.
I had stopped at a harbor taverna in the little port town of
Kyllini in western Greece to ask if anyone could help
the mange-infested street dog I’d just seen.
So far no takers.
“Could I leave you my contact information?” I asked the
curly-haired young woman who seemed to be in charge of the taverna. “And may I
have yours? I have to leave now but— “
“There’s nothing we can do,” Curly Hair interrupted
brusquely.
Her more sympathetic friend, another twenty-something,
looked at me. “Can’t you take him with you?”
I pointed at Diamandi, who was panting inside the car a few
meters away, while big trucks coming off the ferry boat raced past. “That dog was in bad shape out on the streets
too, just a few weeks ago. The reason I’m in a rush is that I have to get her
to Athens and onto a flight to Denmark
tomorrow, where she’ll be adopted by a loving family.”
“Fine. So take another dog too.” Curly Hair grinned smugly
at her friend, proud of her own cleverness.
It is an unfortunate fact that if we really want to help
animals, if we want to be their effective ambassadors, we often have to bite
our tongues against the things we would like very much to say instead of the
polite things we must force out of our mouths.
“I wish I could help him,” I said as gently as I could, “along
with all the rest who need help. It hurts me that right now I can’t. I wish it
were possible. But what is possible
is that we can all share a little responsibility. We can work together and
really help these animals, and help each other when we need it too.”
The sound of my own voice made me cringe. I knew I sounded
like an idiotic Polly Anna. But it was worth it, because Curly Hair looked
baffled, as if she had expected a completely different response.
Losing faith
“Could you put out food for him too?” I pressed. “And ask
the other businesses and neighbors to be kind to him? Meanwhile I’ll see if I can find a group or
somebody to help.”
The sympathetic woman opened her mouth to reply, but seemed
intimidated by her friend.
“Please,” I said. “He’s so miserable. He deserves at least
some food and kindness. He’ll be grateful you for anything you can do. And so
will I.”
I hurried back toward Diamandi. Another truck flew by,
kicking a swirl of dust into my face.
Crossing the street, I heard Curly Hair call out, “Nobody helps
around here. Nobody ever helps us. There’s
no hope.” There was almost a plea in her
voice.
I stopped. I knew what she meant. I had been hearing it
everywhere. It wasn’t just about animals. It was about Greece, about people
losing faith that the economy will ever improve, that there will ever be jobs
again, that there will ever again be a sense of progress or even stability.
It’s hard to imagine losing confidence in a country that has
survived 6,000 years of downward spirals along with all the spectacular upward
ones, but there it was.
A land of dreams
Suddenly I wanted to take the dispirited young women—just
girls, really, who were coming of age during a troubled time—take them and mange-riddled
street orphan Kyllini and pile them all into the car along with Diamandi and me.
Together, we could figure it out, couldn’t we? Maybe the
road to Athens
would give us all renewed hope.
I wished at least that I could think of something inspirational
to say in reply to Curly Hair’s forlorn plea, one she probably didn’t even
realize she was making.
And I wished that I could see Kyllini again before I drove
off, at least so as to feed him.
I knew I would dream about him. I knew I would dream about
the two girls.
Greece
is a land of age-old dreams now set in stone. It is a place built with
surprising solidity on nothing but wishes that turned into treasures.
Just look up, almost anywhere you go in this country, and
you’ll find a Parthenon, or a Temple of Poseidon, or a Byzantine castle—the
ancient genius of wishes and dreams—somehow enduring earthquakes and fires and
pollution, somehow outlasting invasions and dictatorships and wars, somehow
still symbolizing all that Greece has always given and can continue giving to
the world.
Diamandi, only a little dog lost among its shadows, was
about to leave this legendary land, because for her there were few wishes or
dreams left. Her only hope lay in emigration, as it had for countless Greeks,
both human and canine, before her.
But behind her remain thousands of desperate animals and
millions of dispirited people—animals and people who, even more solidly than
the glorious monuments of the past, are the nation’s greatest treasures.
I turned to look at Curly Hair and her friend.
“I’ll be back,” was all I could think of to say.
Because that was all I knew for sure.
For more about
Kyllini, Diamandi, and other dogs and humans, please visit The Dozen Dog Diaries again soon.
ALL PHOTOS AND TEXT BY KATERINA LORENZATOS MAKRIS (unless otherwise noted)
COPYRIGHT 2012
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